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Thread: Damaged Air Chair Board

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  1. Damaged Air Chair Board 
    #1
    Foilforum Addict Greg's Avatar
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    The handle hit the front of my board and dented the top and started tearing down the front. Is there a way to seal it so water doesn't get in the board?

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  2. #2
    Foilforum Addict Tallredrider's Avatar
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    I would think some epoxy would do the trick, but it might be something that you have to tear a little bit of the top deck off to be able to apply it.

    My buddy did the same thing to the center of his NEXT board. I am not sure that it is cracked enough to let water in, and he hasn't done anything to fix it yet. Does anyone know how to tell if water is already in there? His just has a dent in the middle, not creating delamination along the edge.
     
     

  3. #3
    Reverse Scorpion Professional OLDGUY46's Avatar
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    5 minute epoxy works great. Have used it over the years on kneeboards, wakeboards and hydrofoil boards.
     
     

  4. #4
    Foilforum Addict Greg's Avatar
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    Where is a good place to pick up the epoxy?



    2012 Foiltech 40
    2013 FoilTech Death Blade II
    2013 FTR Rear
    2015 XAir Tower
    2015 XAir Black Board
    2015 Malibu Make Bindings

    www.utahhydrofoiling.com


    Am I pissing you off-fuh-fuh?


     
     

  5. #5
    IP
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    Where is a good place to pick up the epoxy?
    Auto parts store. O'Reilly has some.
     
     

  6. #6
    Senior Foiler Elite Crashbob's Avatar
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    I agree as well. Some 2 part epoxy from Walmart would be great. If you look hard you might be able to find some non-yellowing and/or uv stable. Most epoxy resins will yellow pretty bad, but I think I have seen some that won't yellow. You also should probably avoid the kind that stay pliable and soft like rubber. Those ones don't tend to stick as well to smooth surfaces and they can't really be sanded or smoothed after they cure.

    I'd probably rough up the surface of your board where you expect the epoxy to touch (if it isn't already rough enough) with ~100 grit sandpaper. Then apply the epoxy even with a little overfill. Let it cure good and hard (if you can stay out of water that long), and if you can, clamp that piece back down into place until it starts to set well. Wipe off excess with acetone (good for cleaning your hands, too). When it is good and hardened, shape it with rough sandpaper or a file, and then work it down with 120, 220, 320, and even to 400 or 600 grit if you want it to look all pretty and smooth again. Just be careful not to mess up the original finish. You could almost get back to a nearly perfect finish if you went to 1000 grit, but I doubt you really care to make it look too perfect.

    Just looked at the pics again... You could even tape off around those cracks on the top and then rough those up with 100 grit sandpaper. Then put a think layer of epoxy on those, too. Then you can carefully sand it with fine sandpaper, too. Will re-seal those cracks up, too.
     
     

  7. #7
    Face Planting Noob
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    Lucky you didn’t hit your toe with that
     
     

  8. #8
    Foilforum Addict Greg's Avatar
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    Thanks Rob. That is some good advice. Time to get to work on it.



    2012 Foiltech 40
    2013 FoilTech Death Blade II
    2013 FTR Rear
    2015 XAir Tower
    2015 XAir Black Board
    2015 Malibu Make Bindings

    www.utahhydrofoiling.com


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  9. #9
    Foilforum Addict nobrainsd's Avatar
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    You can get a seal with just epoxy, but with the way the edge has delaminated and started to pull away I doubt you will have a long term fix. While it may not appear to do so your board does flex quite a bit under load. These shell construction boards put a lot of stress on the sides. You will get cracks between the glassed material and the solid epoxy repair. It might not be as cosmetic, but I would use epoxy and clamps to glue the pieces in place and then glass over the seam. I do this with surfboards all the time. Will last a long time. Unreinforced epoxy is not going to hold that seam together its the matrix with fiber that gives you the strength.

    I just repaired a nice Brewer surfboard that had been "fixed" by the PO. Filled a big gouge with solid epoxy mixed with micro balloons. That solid lump didn't flex and the repair had fine cracks around the edges. Water intrusion was evident. Removed epoxy mass and fitted small pieces of foam then glassed over with a 1 inch overlap. I use two layers of fiberglass so that when I sand before a gloss coat I can sand until the fiber just shows, leaving one complete layer intact. Just a suggestion!

    Since the board is cf you might want to glass with cf. No two layers with that. You want to glass then coat and absolutely NOT sand the cf strands or it will just crack. Epoxy is easy to get at marine Supply stores. If you can't get a small piece of cf (and want to go that route) let me know and I can send you some. I have lots of trimmed pieces I keep just for repairs. Fiberglass will work fine too, but you can go cf. CF does not have to be bagged. You just end up with slightly more epoxy when you lay it up by hand.
    Last edited by nobrainsd; 06-09-2014 at 09:03 AM.
     
     

  10. #10
    Foilforum Addict Mike's Avatar
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    I did the exact same thing only a little worse but in the same spot. I used this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DZ...&robot_redir=1

    You can get it for cheap from ACE hardware. It worked great and has held up fine. I painted the area black after and it wasn't very noticeable.
    Mike G
     
     

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